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How to choose the right olive oil

How To, Informational

Extra Virgin Olive Oils

I don’t know why but sometimes I like to people watch…

Is this just something that I do or are there others out there who do this as well?

I find that sometimes you can learn something about yourself and others just by taking a few moments to step back and watch what others are doing. I was doing just that when I was at the grocery store this weekend picking up my groceries for the week. I happened to be in the olive oil isle when I noticed something that was somewhat frustrating. I was looking for a good extra virgin olive oil for salad dressing and bread dipping as I’ve been trying to eat healthier this year, but much to my chagrin I could not find a quality extra virgin olive oil in sight! While there were plenty of light oils and virgin oils galore I was limited to two extra virgin olive oil choices. Both were in plastic bottles and looked more l like vegetable oil then extra virgin olive oil. What’s up with that?!

Is it just me or has finding quality extra virgin olive oil been getting impossible lately? I guess this might have been why I started watching others who were in the aisle with me. As I was standing there I watched as patron after patron selected the cheaper oils and then one couple came by and I became a little alarmed as I overheard them talking about their going on a diet this year and how they should get the “light” oil instead!

Is this the reason for the decline of quality oils in the stores? Misinformation? Sadly I believe that it is. So to combat this as best I can I decided to write up a little refresher course for those of you who are in the market for olive oils.

How to choose the right olive oil

Buying olive oil has become somewhat of an everyday experience for most consumers. With the explosion of olive oil companies over the past couple of years; choosing the right olive oil can prove to be as daunting a task as picking a fine wine. Like most products quality does come with a higher price, but price does not always guarantee the highest quality. According to the IOOC (International Olive Oil Council) there are differing grades of olive oil that are derived from the ways in which the olive oil is harvested.

What does Cold Pressing Mean?

First, let’s get one of the most commonly misunderstood and confusing terms out of the way. Cold pressing and first pressing are interchangeable terms. The first pressing of the olives will produce the finest grade of olive oil. This process is typically done by hand and without the use of heat or other chemicals hence the interchangeable terminology. To extract more olive oil in the refining process, hot water is typically passed through the olive paste to extract larger amounts of oil. The difference in the two processes is where the term Cold Pressing got its name. Hot is usually the second pressing and produces a lower quality oil.

How do olive oils differ among each grade and what does this mean?

According to the IOOC there are many different types of olive oil. I have done my best to break down each type of oil that you will commonly encounter on your next shopping experience to arm you with the knowledge you will need to make an educated choice.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Extra Virgin Olive Oil is regarded as the highest grade of olive oil. Extra virgin olive oil is a direct result of cold pressing and will provide the most natural and flavorful taste of any olive oil. To be classified as extra virgin it must have an FFA (acidity Level) of less than 0.8%. The olive oil must also have the perfect aroma, flavor, color and be free from all defects. The lower the acidity level, the higher the quality of oil, and the more distinctive the flavor and aromas will be. Extra virgin olive oil is great for use with salads and when used for bread dipping.

Virgin Olive Oil

Virgin Olive Oil is the 2nd highest quality grade of olive oil. Virgin olive oil is also derived solely from the cold pressing of the olives but will typically have a milder, fruitier taste and odor. While there are no differences in the way in which the oil is extracted, virgin olive oil typically has an FFA (acidity) level of less than 2% and contains slight defects.

Olive Oil – Light Oil – Lite Oil

Typically these types of oil have been extracted using heat or hot water. The oil will generally have a high to very high FFA level and will contain obvious defects. Manufactures will typically refine this oil which will make it colorless, odorless, and flavorless. To help give it some flavor, small quantities of virgin olive oil will be added; this is typically around 5%- 15%. Contrary to belief Lite or Light oils do not prove to be a healthier option then extra virgin or virgin olive oils. The FDA recently restricted oils previously labeled as lite or light to be relabeled as “Light in Taste” or “Lite Tasting”. Light Olive oil does not have fewer calories and the term light simply refers to its light color, flavor and aroma.

Olive Pomace Oil

Olive Pomace Oil is extracted from the remaining portions of the olives after the pressing or “Pomace” by the use of solvents. The oil is then refined and mixed with a higher grade of virgin olive oil. This is again around 5%-15%.

Infused or Flavored Olive Oils

Infused or Flavored Olive Oils are generally extra virgin olive oils that have been processed with another fruit or vegetable to add flavor. The fruit or vegetable is typically placed with the olives as they are being pressed. The oil is then extracted in either the centrifuge or decanting state leaving behind its flavor. These can be wonderful alternatives to the “normal” extra virgin olive oil as they can add sweetness and make perfect toppings for a salad or fruit.

Here is where things can really start to get complicated. Since the United States is not a participating member of the IOOC, there is a different rating system to govern US produced olive oils. The rating system is based on the acidity, absence of defects, odor and flavor; it is graded as follows:

Olive Oil

US Olive Oil Grades

  • U.S. Grade A or U.S. Fancy possesses a free fatty acid content of not more than 1.4% and is “free from defects”
  • U.S. Grade B or U.S. Choice possesses a free fatty acid content of not more than 2.5% and is “reasonably free from defects”
  • U.S. Grade C or U.S. Standard possesses a free fatty acid content of not more than 3.0% and is “fairly free from defects”
  • U.S. Grade D or U.S. Substandard possesses a free fatty acid content greater than 3.0% “fails to meet the requirements of U.S. Grade C”

One of the largest problems I find with this rating system is largely in part to the vagueness of means in which the olive oil can be produced. Because it is so vague it does not offer the same quality assurance that is received with the IOOC guidelines.

Unfortunately, because the United States is not a participating member of the IOOC, a vast majority of olive oils are being sold under false pretenses as terms such as “Extra Virgin” may be used without legal restrictions. Perfect…right?!

A good olive oil should look somewhat cloudy, especially soon after it has been harvested. If the oil appears clear it means that it may have been refined during the manufacturing process, either in a centrifuge or by decanting process, and will most likely have an additional reduction in quality.

The oil should also be packaged in a dark glass bottle to protect it from the damaging effects of light and surrounding aromas. Since the olive is a fruit, olive oil is a fruit juice. Air, heat and light will cause the flavor or the oil to dissipate.

Finally, avoid buying extra virgin olive oil that is stored in plastic containers as they can absorb compounds in the plastic such as PVC (Polyvinyl Chlorides). The ideal storage temperature is 57 F although room temperature of 70 F works well if the oil is stored in a dark area. While refrigeration does not harm most oils, it is not recommended for expensive extra virgin olive oils as condensation may develop inside the bottle and will affect the overall flavor. I hope this gives everyone a little better idea of what the differences are and what to watch out for on your next shopping experience.

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Chocolate Dipped Candied Oranges -
A lesson on how to temper chocolate

Desserts, Foodie 101, Informational, Recipes

Chocolate Covered Candied Oranges

Like most people I love chocolate.

I guess you could say I’m addicted…..

I seriously will buy myself a high quality chocolate bar at least once a week. There is just something magical about it. No matter what kind of day I’m having if I start to eat chocolate all of my troubles seem to melt away; which coincidentally is probably why I love to work with chocolate as well.

Working with chocolate can be fun; especially if you have something to dip in it (more on that later). However, when working with chocolate for the first time there are some questions that need to be answered. If you ever have finished coating something in chocolate and asked yourself:

Why is my chocolate sticky after it has cooled?

Or

What are these little brown or white spots or markings on my chocolate?

Or even

Why won’t my chocolate harden to a crispy crunch like in the store?

Well all the answers to these questions arethe same! The chocolate was not properly tempered. What’s tempering you ask? Well tempering is the process in which you force the sugar crystals to form a dense crystalline structure that will allow you to obtain that slight sheen and ever so desirable snap in chocolate simply by cooking the chocolate in a different process.

To temper chocolate there is really only one gold standard of which all true chocolatiers use. They will melt a desired quantity of chocolate and then pour ¾ of the melted chocolate onto a marble slab. The chocolatier will quickly work the chocolate folding it upon itself repeatedly until the temperature reaches 82 degrees. Seasoned veterans of this craft can do this simply by feel and look. They then placed the cooled chocolate back with the remaining ¼ chocolate to bring the temperature back to 88 – 90 degrees. This temperature is maintained throughout the dipping process to ensure the chocolate maintains the desired output. But what if you don’t have a marble slab just lying around?

Semi-Sweet Chocolate

Well don’t fear. There is an alternative method that home chefs have been using for years which similar results. Using a double boiler melt ¾ of the chocolate you plan to use for dipping or pouring into chocolate molds until the temperature reaches approximately 110 degrees. At this point the sugar crystals are loose and will produce sugar blooms if used.

Melted Semi-Sweet Chocolate

Since we don’t want that, seed the chocolate by adding the remaning ¼ chocolate. Stir the chocolate until the temperature has reached 88 – 90 degrees (I prefer the lower end).

Seeding Chocolate

Don’t let your chocolate leave this range, if your chocolate reaches 88 degrees, place it back on top of the double boiler to heat it back up to 90 degrees then remove it from the double boiler to continue use.

Tempered Chocolate

While tempered chocolate is great for creating shapes or other candies, I find that the best use of chocolate is for dipping fruits to create an oh so delectable treat! What’s my favorite you ask? Well it just so happens that I love candied oranges that have been dipped in chocolate. Not only is orange a great combination with chocolate candied oranges step this up by adding another level of sweetness!

Sliced Oranges

To begin your chocolate covered candied oranges you must first candy your oranges. Cut 4 oranges in half lengthwise. Place the cut sides down and slice the oranges crosswise into ¼ inch pieces and discard the ends.

Boiling Oranges

In a 10 inch shallow pan boil the water and sugar together. Once the mixture has come to a boil reduce the heat and add your oranges. You will let this simmer uncovered for an hour. Partially dunk any floating slices throughout the process. Then remove it from the heat and allow it to cool to room temperature.

Drying Oranges

Using a slotted spoon place the orange slices on a drying rack with parchment paper or pan underneath for 24 hours.

Toss Oranges in Sugar

When your slices have dried (they will still be sticky) toss them in the granulated sugar and reserve them. Do not stack them or they will stick together. Using your tempered chocolate; dip each slice 2/3 of the way into the chocolate. Gently scrape off excess chocolate against the side of the pan and set it on a sheet of wax paper to set. Let cool and harden then enjoy!

Candied Oranges

Chocolate Dipped Candied Orange Slices

Ingredients:

4 Oranges
2 Cups Water
3 ½ cups granulated sugar
3 cups granulated sugar for coating
2 pounds semisweet chocolate

Directions:

1. Cut the oranges in half lengthwise. With the cut side down slice the oranges crosswise into ¼ inch pieces. Discard the ends.
2. In a 10 inch sauté pan combine the water and the 3 ½ cups sugar. Stir to blend, then bring to a boil over medium heat.
3. Add the orange slices, separating them, and simmer them gently for 1 hour uncovered. Periodically dunk any floating slices. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.
4. Remove the orange slices, with a slotted spoon and transfer to a cooling rack set over parchment paper or baking sheet to let drain and dry for 24 hours.
5. After drying the slices, toss them in granulated sugar and reserve them. Do not stack them or let them stick together.
6. While you are coating the orange slices begin tempering the chocolate.
7. Dip the orange slices 2/3 of the way into the chocolate. Gently scrape off excess chocolate against the side of the pan and set on a sheet of wax paper to set.

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Perfect Technique: How to Flambé

How To, Informational

Flambe

The word Flambé is one that creates the impression of an extravagant and difficult to prepare meal. Many chefs stray away from desserts or meals that are prepared using this method because they fear that is simply an art that is too difficult to master. That or they are afraid they might accidentally burn down the house.

Flambé (which means flaming when translated in French) is one of the best ways to add an additional layer of flavor to your meal. The flambé method allows the chef to incorporate a flavor of the liqueur without having the harsh bite of alcohol remaining. This can be an effective method for meals ranging from meats to desserts and can create a very beautiful presentation when used in front of guests.

The first step when flambéing is to choose the liqueur to pair with your meal. You will want to use a brandy or high proof liqueur. It is best to choose a liqueur that is 80 proof; as anything containing a higher proof is viewed as too unstable for the flaming process and can yield explosive results (literally). However, liqueurs that are of a lower proof run the risk of not igniting when held to the flame. It is best to add a liqueur that resembles the flavor of the fruit or meat being prepared. A cognac or whiskey can compliment the flavor of a meat and will create a complexity that is hard to rival with other cooking methods.

Next heat the brandy or liqueur in a small sauce pan with high sides as most recipes will call for little more then 4 oz of liqueur (approximately ½ cup). You will want to heat the sauce pan until bubbles begin to form around the edges. This will happen as the liqueur reaches its boiling point of 175 degrees which is much lower then water (212 degrees).

At the same time in a separate pan heat the food that you are planning on flambéing. If the food is not warm when the liqueur is added you run the risk of cooling the liqueur too much and it may not light. It is important when using a gas stove not to poor the liqueur directly from the bottle over the stove as the flame can chase up the bottle and explode, which would not be a good thing. While flambéing can impress your guests a trip to the hospital can also impress them as well, just not in a way you were hoping for.

When both the liqueur and food have reached their temperatures simply add the liqueur from the sauce pan. If you are using a gas stove be prepared as the flame may ignite the fumes and begin the flambé process. If you are using an electric stove or the flame does not light the alcohol as it is added simply use a long lighter or match (like you would use for your fireplace) to begin the flaming process.

From here, simply let it cook until the flame has disappeared which signifies the burning off of the alcohol. As the flame burns simply move the pan in a back and forth motion being careful not to spill the contents over the side of the pan to ensure the burning off of all the alcohol. When finished, remove from the heat and serve immediately as most flambé recipes are meant to be served hot!

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How to cook a thick steak on the stove

How To, Informational

How to cook a thick steak
As the dead of winter sets in many meat loving foodies find themselves deprived of what they crave the most, a great tasting thick steak! With grilling a non-existent option (unless you truly want to risk burning your house down or contracting frost bite on you toes and fingers) and broilers being one of the most useless kitchen items around, stove top cooking becomes the only option. However, many people find that cooking a steak on the stove is extremely challenging and will never yield the steakhouse quality steak they want and crave. I believe the biggest cause of this problem is because a vast majority of home chefs use way too much high heat! One of the greatest articles I found for producing some of the greatest steakhouse steaks was written a few years ago by Alain Ducasse (here). In this article he explains one of the greatest steak cooking methods that he uses at his restaurants. It allows for a little versatility and can be done at home with little to no special equipment. I have taken some time and put together my interpretation of this method as well as a photographic demonstration of this process. One of the greatest advantages of this method is that it is a very simple process to follow and yields perfect results almost every time!

The first step in the process is selecting the steak. I personally prefer a well aged rib steak as I believe that it a far superior flavor and contains the perfect amount of marbling!

To begin the cooking process (which should take approximately 45 to 50 minutes) heat your pan to a medium heat. Place the steak on its edge to begin the cooking process. The reason we place the steak on its edge is to render the fat which will help to reinforce the flavor! It may be difficult to get a thinner piece of meat to stand on its edge by itself. If this is a problem it can quickly be solved with a pair of tongs or two spoons. Cooking the sides of the steak should take approximately 10 minutes.

Thick Side Steak

When the edges have achieved perfection it is now time to cook the steak faces. Before you place the steak face down smash two cloves of garlic and melt a quarter stick of butter into the pan. The fat will help two factors of flavor; first it will carry the flavor of the garlic into the meat and second it will help with enhancing the Maillard reaction. The Maillard reaction is responsible for roasted flavor, but be careful if you use heat that is too high this can quickly turn into a carbonized flavor which to me ruins the overall flavor of the meat.

How to cook a thick steak on the stove

After about 10 minutes, the first side should be reaching the perfect temperature. However, the butter has started to brown and needs to be replaced to prevent an infusion of the burnt butter flavor.

How to cook a thick steak on the stove

Finally, after another 10 minutes of cooking the meat should be reaching perfection. Resist checking the meats roasting by cutting into it, the more the meat gets poked the more juice runs out drying out the meat. I suggest using a meat thermometer to read the temperature to ensure the desired finish.

Once the meat has finished cooking on the stove it needs to rest. This allows the juices to settle back into the meat after they rushed to the surface from the cooking process. This should take approximately 15 minutes or half of the time the meat was on the stove. I use a warm plate or you can place it in a oven at approximately 150 degrees to ensure that the meat does not cool too much while you wait.

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